WOMEN'S COSTUME

The clothing of both sexes consisted of a chiton and a himation, but a female dress was much more colorful and varied. A distinctive feature of women's chiton of early period (doric chiton) was the flap of the top edge, called diploid. Diploid played an important decorative role in the costume decorated with embroidery, applique and painted ornaments; it could be made of fabric of different color. The length of the flap could be different, it went down to the chest, hips and knees. Depending on the ratio of the length of diploid and other parts of the chiton the certain proportions of the figure were created.
Some of female chitons were without flaps. Slight folds of thin cloth, goffering, color combinations of the main fabric, jewelry and embroidery were used for the decoration. As well as men's chiton women’s was fastened on the shoulders with fibulae and tided with a belt to form a blousing – kolpos.
Later ionic chiton of a very thin soft fabric was richly draped and girded at the waist, hips and crossed on the chest. Due to its width it looked like arms. Spartan women wore the chiton called peplos, its right-hand side cuts were not sewed and decorated with ornamental border and folds of drapery. In Athens noble girls were dressed in peplos during solemn processions.
Greek women wore himation as an outerwear that could be draped in various ways. Female himation was smaller than the male, but more ornamented. There is an interesting description of the color solutions of female costume in the novel of the famous Soviet scientist - paleontologist and writer Ivan Efremov's "Athenian Thais": "Nannion covered the thinnest ionic chiton with the blue himation, embroidered with gold with a simple border of hooked and stylized waves along the bottom edge. According to the eastern fashion hetaera’s himation was thrown over her right shoulder and fastened with the buckle across the back on the left side.


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